In the middle of summer, under the strong sunlight, I visited Don Bravo, an Italian restaurant in Kokuryo, Chofu City, to interview Chef Masakazu Taira. Although the restaurant is located a little away from the city center, many guests come from afar every day to enjoy Chef Taira’s simple yet original dishes that make use of carefully selected ingredients.

Our first encounter with Chef Taira was when he saw our coffee cups, which were used at ONIBUS COFFEE, and visited our shop, which was located at Co-op Olympia in Harajuku at the time. Since then, he has been using our tableware in his restaurant. In this interview, I was able to talk to him about the background to his choice of tableware and how it feels to use them.

“I think oval plates are generally used in a more casual atmosphere than restaurants, but I was attracted to the exquisiteness of the texture and curves of the yumiko iihoshi porcelain’s Oval Plate, which is refined but not too formal. At the restaurant, we aim to serve simple dishes that are surprising as you eat them, and dishes that are familiar to everyone but are made with great care and attention to the ingredients and techniques, so that you can tell that they are well-made. I feel that there is something in common with the tableware of yumiko iihoshi porcelain, and I feel that it is just right for what I want to do.”

The first dish he prepared was a dish of large cut zucchini, slowly grilled over a firewood while surrounded by steam, with a coriander-based sauce, karasumi, anchovies, and burrata cheese underneath. The gradation of flavors that you can enjoy as you eat from the edge, and the combination of ingredients that you can feel in one bite, are all overwhelming, and are complex flavors that you would never imagine from the simple look.

“Tableware changes the impression of a dish. Sometimes I think about the food from the tableware.  What’s great about yumiko iihoshi porcelain’s tableware is that it can be used freely for both appetizers and main dishes. Until now, Western tableware was vaguely categorized as this is for appetizers and this is for main dishes, but unjour can be used for any menu, and I appreciate its versatility. Handmade tableware has its merits, but a few people enjoy it. Mass-produced products are within the reach of many people, but when you use them, you feel comfortable but moderate a proper degree of tesion; I feel that yumiko iihoshi porcelain fits that bill perfectly.”

The distinctive rim of the unjour plate enhances the presence of the hamburger steak, which is made with aged meat from Sakaeya ​​butcher shop in Shiga. The chunk of meat is hand-cut and rolled into fluffy balls, then wood-grilled and served with a simple red wine sauce. This luxurious dish releases the deep flavor of the meat and the aroma of the wood fire the more you chew it. Even in classic dishes that are loved by everyone, Chef Taira’s commitment to using only the best ingredients and putting in the effort to provide something a little different is apparent.

Don Bravo, located in a residential area, is symbolized by its stylish exposed concrete exterior. I was a little nervous about what it would be like inside, but when I entered the restaurant, I was greeted by a immersive open kitchen and energetic staff, and the warm, comfortable atmosphere put me at ease. The guests cannot see what is going on outside from inside the restaurant, because Chef Taira wants you to be able to enjoy your meal away from your everyday life without having to worry about the people walking around or the scenery outside by being in a residential area.

“I want to create a place where all kinds of people, from the younger generation to families with children and elderly couples, can be in the same space and have fun. I think that’s the essence of a restaurant,” said Chef Taira. While it’s unpretentious and homey, many fans come back again and again, even if they come from a little far away, hoping to spend a special, high-quality time with food that can only be enjoyed here. This is proof that Chef Taira’s vision has been realized. Recently, he has been studying at a Japanese restaurant twice a month, and as a result of this, he has also been visiting a Japanese tableware artist, who he became interested in. This visit made me even more excited to see what Chef Taira’s future dishes will bring, as he is always curious and inquisitive, and continues to update his cuisine.

Don Bravo
3-6-43 Kokuryo-cho, Chofu city, Tokyo 182-0022
042-482-7378
https://www.donbravo.net/

Photo Suguru Ariga
Interview & text Natsuko Kobayashi