At the beginning of November, when the signs of autumn gradually began to deepen, I visited BIEN-ETRE MAISON, which opened in 2022 as an eat-in specialty store of the popular patisserie BIEN-ETRE PATISSERIE in Yoyogi Uehara. 

Upon entering the building, located halfway up the hill in a nostalgic shopping street, the first thing that catches the eye is the arched shelf lined with tableware. The interior of the cafe utilizes the iconic window arch inherited from a Chinese restaurant that has been in business for 50 years, and the soft curves of the counter, tables and tubular curtains as well as the feel of the wood create a warm atmosphere. The cafe has power outlets at every seat and ample seating for people with baby strollers, in the hope that it can be used on any occasion. Many people visit for the monthly parfait, freshly made millefeuille, and paired drinks, and spend their time in their own way.

In this article, the owner chef of BIEN-ETRE MAISON, Ms. Maiko Baba, talks about the original tableware she commissioned yumiko iihoshi porcelain to produce for her cafe. She said she liked the color and texture of the tableware and has been using it at home and in her existing cafe for some time.

“At first, we didn’t think we would be able to ask to produce original tableware on our scale. We were very happy when they accepted our request. Artists’ works are often fragile and difficult to handle, making it difficult to use them for commercial purposes, but the tableware of yumiko iihoshi porcelain is wonderful because it expresses the artist Yumiko Iihoshi’s sensibility while standing up well as a product! I appreciate the fact that they are durable and can be used in the dishwasher without hesitation.  Above all, the most important thing that I incorporate into my cafe is to be able to “feel the creator’s thoughts and feelings” as well as the ingredients used in the menu. We commissioned the work in the hope that our thoughts and feelings would be conveyed through the hands and sensibilities of Ms. Iihoshi.”

We were approached by BIEN-ETRE MAISON when it was about to open. The cups were requested to be “simple and beautiful so that you will never get tired of them, and to have a rounded body that makes you want to put your hand on them.” The first thing we did was to decide on the shape of the cups. We sought a cup that would cover the desired volume, yet be just the right weight when held in the hand, while retaining a light but not too thin body that would feel good on the palate.

“While enjoying sweets, we have made sure to maintain the capacity of drink so that customer can enjoy the pairing together from beginning to end. In addition, I requested that the handle should have a stable shape so that a woman’s two fingers can fit properly in the cup and a man’s one finger can hold it firmly without getting tired. I was also very impressed with the thin rim of the ReIRABO series cups by yumiko iihoshi porcelain, so in addition to the overall lightness of the cups, I was also careful to make the mouth of the cups thin so that the drinks would taste good.”

One of the things that impressed us during our work together was that when Chef Baba looked at several samples of the shapes we had prepared, she carefully checked each cup by gently holding it in both hands. The cup that Chef Baba immediately and intuitively selected was a soft and relaxing shape.

“Many women hold the cup with putting on the other hand when holding it. We wanted our customers to feel at home in the restaurant, sipping a hot beverage with both hands, so we focused on the roundness of the cups, which fit comfortably in the hands. The name “maison,” which means “house” in French, was added to the name of the cafe in the hope that customers will have a relaxing time as if they were spending time at home. The finished cups have a gentle curve that links with the symbolic window arches used throughout the cafe, and the form makes you want to cherish them when you hold them. We would be happy if you could choose one as a gift for a loved one.”

The finished original cups and saucers in the three colors have a gentle texture that is moist to the touch and warm. White is used throughout the year, with the addition of cool blue for spring and summer, and warm purple for fall and winter, and the colors used in the restaurant are divided according to the season. This is an idea that only Chef Baba, who always works with seasonal ingredients and values a sense of seasonality, could have come up with. The reason behind the use of color variations rather than a single color is to provide a little fun for regular customers, who wonder what color cup they will be served in today. “When I saw the cups in the store, I wanted to add more colors. I’m thinking, “What color should I ask for next?”

I felt that the reason why BIEN-ETRE MAISON has captured people’s hearts and minds is not only the dessert and drink combinations that offer fresh surprises and delight, but also the warmth of Chef Baba’s passion that is put into everything you see, touch, and feel here. We hope that the cups and saucers will be a part of the special moments that visitors can only experience here.

＜BIEN-ETRE MAISON original cups and saucers are available at BIEN-ETRE MAISON.＞

BIEN-ETRE MAISON
〒151-0064
3F, 1-17-11 Uehara, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
03-5738-8827
Instagram @bienetre.maison

Photo Suguru Ariga
Interview & text Natsuko Kobayashi