This time I visited the signature dining restaurant est, located on the top floor of the Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Otemachi. In line with Chef Guillaume Bracaval’s philosophy, est offers innovative and contemporary French cuisine inspired by his deep knowledge of Japanese terroir, and was awarded one star in the Michelin Guide Tokyo 2024 for three consecutive years. With a dynamic view of Tokyo and a realistic show kitchen in the restaurant as a backdrop, est welcome their guests with a variety of deep and delicate dishes using a rich variety of seasonal ingredients.  Our tableware is used here as dessert plates.

The refined course, harmoniously blending French and Japanese flavors, will end with an artistic dessert created by est Pastry Chef Michele Abbatemarco. This year, Chef Abbatemarco received the Best Pastry Chef Award in the “Gault et Millau 2024” for his desserts, which combine exceptional artistry and impressive taste.

“I love the modern design and colors of yumiko iihoshi porcelain, and I was impressed by the quality of the products as I used them daily in my home. The colors of yumiko iihoshi porcelain tableware lined up on my dining room table always bring me joy, and I love how the colors and designs vary from series to seres, but when they are combined side by side, they harmonize beautifully. I also appreciate the difference in the appearance of each piece, which is a sign of craftsmanship, and I feel that the added value of the tableware, which is a product and is completed by hand by craftsmen, further enhances its appeal.”

With a deep respect for Japanese traditions, the est team is deeply influenced by the producers, fishermen, hunters, and artisans of various specialties, their customs and culture, nature, and products, and they incorporate the work of Japanese artists and artisans not only in their food, but also in their tableware, glasses, and interiors.

“Local craftsmanship is very important to the est concept. That is why, as with most of our food, our first priority is to ensure that the products we use in the restaurant are made in Japan. Secondly, we value materials and design, and yumiko iihoshi porcelain tableware reflects the best of both worlds: sophisticated, modern Japanese design and handcrafted artisanal work, with a simple, elegant style that complements our food.”

Chef Abbatemarco’s request was very clear, as he had already used various series at home and already had an idea of how they looked when served. He asked us to create original ReIRABO and unjour series in glossy texture, warm white and ivory, so that the design would not only harmonize with creative seasonal desserts, but also fit in with the elegant ivory- and beige-based interior of est. The tableware, illuminated by the lighting, fits well with the warm and friendly atmosphere of the restaurant, as well as its dignity, and he told us he loves it.

Chef Abbatemarco describes the presentation as “all the important elements of my desserts,” with elegant friandise served on small plates of varying sizes. Reflecting his commitment to sustainability, the ReIRABO round plate S, M, and L sizes are used for the lovely and delicate pastries, which incorporate traditional Japanese ingredients such as gyuhi and use domestic honey.


Soba choko cup from the ReIRABO series, finished with the same glossy texture as the plate and featuring the est logo, was selected as the dessert cup to be served at the end of the meal. When I first saw Chef Abbatemarco’s creative desserts served in the cups, I was freshly surprised and impressed by the variety of flavors and textures hidden in the rich chocolate espuma as you eat each bite.

Along with the abundance of Japanese ingredients, art is an indispensable source of inspiration for Chef Abbatemarco’s creative desserts. The dish served at the time of our visit was inspired by the work of French artist Claude Viallat. The mousse is made of various ingredients such as blueberries and blackcurrants in impressive shades of purple, and a bowl of dan dan is served with violet ice cream.

“The greatest appeal of yumiko iihoshi porcelain’s tableware lies in its simple yet unique design and the cleanliness that complements the food. Just as I am inspired by art, my ‘artwork’ is enhanced by the yumiko iihoshi porcelain plate as a canvas or a perfect frame. The 250-size unjour apres midi plate I requested is ideal for my dessert. I love the way the different textures of the plates and bowls work together beautifully when you look into the top of the plate, and the lines on the rim of the bowl accentuate and bring it all together. I receive warm compliments and feedback from our guests on a daily basis, and I feel that these plates are very important,” said Chef Abbatemarco.

He also shared with us what he feels is the functional aspect of serving the precision-decorated desserts and ice cream that are an integral part of his desserts on a daily basis.

“They are very helpful not only in terms of design, but also in terms of functionality. Desserts that are layered with different ingredients and need to be served at different temperatures are affected by the slightest difference in plate thickness. At the time of service, the service staff will need time to explain the service, and some customers will take photos. In addition, our restaurant’s large windows let sunlight pour into our tables. The yumiko iihoshi porcelain plates are just the right thickness, neither too thick nor too thin, and they have the right amount of height, even though they appear to be flat, so they are excellent at maintaining temperature in such a wide range of environments.”

My impression of est through this interview is that it has a cozy atmosphere with dignity, graceful yet light and friendly. In addition, the various elements that make up of est, such as the space, interior, service and creative cuisine, all carry a warm message for the guests.  It was a very moving experience to see how our tableware was one of the elements that conveyed Chef Abbatemarco’s creativity and thoughts.

Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Otemachi
est
39th Floor, 1-2-1 Otemachi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-0004
03-6810-0655 (Restaurant Reservations)
https://www.fourseasons.com/jp/otemachi/dining/restaurants/est/

Photo Suguru Ariga
Interview & text Natsuko Kobayashi